Saturday 9th May Tbilisi to Stepantsminda

Being a sad lonely solo traveller I sat and had breakfast on my own. However, I was quickly joined by an American bloke who couldn’t find anywhere to sit. Do I play the sniffy stand-offish Brit or do I engage in conversation? Well, he asked very politely if he could join me, so I chose the latter. As it happens, he was a very friendly chap who was about to finish his current tour and then hop over to Tashkent to travel around Uzbekistan. Lucky sod! However, his opening gambit with me was the most telling. “Before I say anything else, can I just apologize for everything my country and its idiotic leader are doing now”. Crikey! I’m really not keen on anything or anyone (except for Bruce, of course!) “Septic-side” at the moment, which might be unfair, but I couldn’t really ignore him after that! In fact, it made for an interesting breakfast.

Today’s line-up was as follows; - Jvari Monastery (just outside Tbilisi), a shortish drive to former capital of Georgia Mtskheta and then a long drive high into the mountains to Stepantsminda.


Jvara Monastery


As we left Tbilisi we drove past signs to Tbilisi, Baku, Yerevan and Tehran. A sobering reminder of how close we were to one of the world’s pariah states. Furthermore, by the end of the day we’ll be just 15 miles away from another, Russia. Arguably, by chatting to the Yank at breakfast I’d got the full set!!



Jvari Monastery, was to be the first of many on this trip. It was fine, but nothing that special. High on a hill overlooking the confluence of Kura River and the Aragvi River. Further on towards Stepantsminda we’ll pass the unusual confluence of the “Black and White Aragvi Rivers”. It’s unusual because the water doesn’t appear to mix, reflecting the names of the two rivers. There were great views down to Mtskheta.


 

The confluence of the Black and White Aragvi Rivers

 

Mtskheta and the Kura/Aragvi confluence


 The Jvari Monastery welcome committee!

Next up was Mtskheta. At the heart of this old city was a fine Monastery (again). All very photogenic, but quite crowded with bloody tourists like my good self.

   

 Mtskheta

On from Mtskheta we hit the Georgian Military Highway, that leads up to the Russian border. The only border crossing with Russia that is open There are other crossings in South Ossetia and Abkhazia, but these are disputed territories, under strict Georgian military control, so the borders are shut. As I found out last year, the Georgian Military Highway is one hell of a road. It is the primary land access route to get goods into Armenia (to the south of Georgia), and is incredibly busy with HGV’s from a huge range of Russia and former Soviet countries.


Anunauri


After a short stop at Ananauri, we really started the climb up to the ski resort of Gudauri in earnest. Just beyond Gudauri is the high point of Jvari pass at nearly 8,000 feet. At Gudauri we came to halt, marooned amongst the hordes of HGV’s. Eventually we edge forward, but it’s horribly stop start. The 27 kilometre journey takes over two hours. It looks like there have been avalanches that have restricted the road to just one carriageway. Anyway, at least we got to Stepantsminda. The weather is wonderful – clear blue skies and sunshine, with superb views across to Trinity Church at Gergeti and the peak of Mount Kazbek at 16,000 feet.

 

 

 

I didn’t bother unpacking and got out for a walk around the town, taking in the awesome scenery.

 

Mount Kazbek

 


 

 



Later was our first group dinner together. Not a great experience at all. Somehow, I was sat next to two of the solo women travellers. One was really pleasant – a very well-spoken and worldly-wise lady. The other was Mrs Intense from Hampstead. Far too uptight and opinionated about everything: and far too early upon meeting new people. It was just very cringy with the well-spoken lady just agreeing to differ a number of times. Jeez, I hope there aren’t too many of these dinners. It’ll be a test of my creativity to excuse myself from them! 

Summary of Day 2 – obviously I’m concerned about this group, but I’m hopeful that I’ve got the ability to remain aloof and do my own thing where possible or necessary. Despite the slow journey at the end, I’m delighted to be high up in the Caucasus, thoroughly enjoying the snow-capped mountains and the superb weather. Let’s hope it remains clear for tomorrow’s visit to the Trinity Church at Gergeti. Clear skies will be a marked improvement on last year’s visit.




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