Portuguese Coastal Camino - day 3. Povoa da Varizim to Esposende

 Friday 5 September 2025 – Povoa da Varzim to Esposende


An early start. We set off in beautiful clean light. It was cool and the sun was barely up, as we walked the mile down to join the coastal path. Our first encounter was a weird emporium that sold statues of types. Somewhat eerie in the half light, although I did rather like the one of an Ox. I think it would look just fine in my front garden, with a yellow and blue scarf around its neck.


That would look superb on my front garden!

Yet again the Atlantic breakers were piling in. A swim looked highly unlikely today. Despite the early hour, the path was already quite busy with walkers. Once again, it was mainly along boardwalks through dunes, and along the back of the beautiful white sandy beaches.


 


After 4 miles we stopped for coffee and breakfast at Café Dunas near Praia Barranha. From there it was a long boring slog past a golf course that lay between us and the sea. Next stop was at Praia de Apulia where ice creams and cold drinks were in order.

 

 

Another 2.5 miles further on our route took us slightly inland to Fao, where we were to cross the Cavado River. We had a fine lunch at Padaria Bar. Cheesy chips and ham – not healthy, but lovely. The young staff there were really friendly too.

 

We crossed the iron bridge over the River Cavado and turned back long the river towards the sea again. Just as we turned off there was a huge yellow arrow on the road and “Bom Caminho” written in front of it. It felt like we were walking along an airport runway.

 

From there it was the final few miles into Esposende. By now it was really hot, and I was feeling very tired. I’d was developing the full set - blisters, chafing and a sore arse – what’s not to like!?


We found a pharmacy and got some Sudocrem, but had to wait an age to pay. I’m not the most patient at the best of times, but this was really agitating me! It was a very tetchy Nodge when we eventually left the shop!

 

 

Yet again the hotel was nearly a mile beyond the scheduled end point on the Mac’s app. With just under 14 miles walked, the hotel was a very welcome sight. Even more so, its swimming pool. Oh yes, that’s a real bonus!



After just resting for 90 minutes, we used the pool and felt so much better for doing so.

To celebrate our achievement for the day, was it a big dinner out? Nope we walked to the nearby Aldi, and had ourselves a romantic picnic on the balcony

I am seriously, doubting the wisdom of doing this malarky. It’s not been a lot of fun so far. Although the swim in the pool was joyous. Bom Caminho, as they say in Portuguese.



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