Via Francigena - Day One

Saturday 21^st September – Montefiascone to Viterbo

With breakfast on offer, and seemingly no stopping point to eat or drink on our walking route, we opted for a late(ish) start. There were around 10 other people, who looked like walkers, having breakfast, and we could hear plenty of English being spoken. So, already more English speakers than on the whole of the Camino Inglés last year!

A bright sunny day greeted us as we emerged from the hotel. Before getting on our way we had a wander up to the viewpoint at the top of Montefiascone above us. The view to the south-east was over to the old heart of the town, and the Basilica de Santi Margherita. To the north-west was Lake Bolsena. All rather beautiful, and very tempting to linger. But with 20 kilometres to walk. We needed to push on. Getting out of the town was the usual boring affair  through tedious suburbs and past warehouses….just likely any other town. However, the occasional glimpse behind us was rewarded with views of the old town up on the hill. I’m no expert on Italy, but I thought that all the hillside town stuff was meant to be in Tuscany. Either way, very beautiful.

 

 

 

 Montefiascone

Eventually we veered off road and onto footpaths and tracks. In places, they could have been the ancient Roman cobblestones. We planned a stop at some “thermal baths” after about 11km. Our guide notes said that we should bring swimming costumes and take advantage of their healing qualities. “A great highlight is encountering the Bagnaccio thermal pools……the Romans used to bathe here and little has changed at the site for 2000 years”.  A couple of kilometres before the baths we hooked up with 4 British women who we recognised from our hotel. Just chatting with different people made the walking almost unnoticeable. We got to the “thermal baths”, only to find them all locked up and looking very over-grown. Hot, sweaty and tired we were more than a shade naffed off. Time for a rest, so out came our trusty poncho’s that double as ground sheets.

 

 

Twenty minutes later we were on our way again. The temperature was rising, and there was little or no shade for the next 6km to the edge of Viterbo. To make matters worse, and I wish I could put this more delicately, I was starting to get painful chafing on my inner thighs. By the time I got to Viterbo I had horrible welts where my shorts/undies had rubbed. Give me my traditional blisters any day!

Viterbo was described in our itinerary as the best-preserved medieval town in Lazio, and in the 13^th century was the residence of the Popes. We hit the outskirts of town, and it was the usual plethora of out-of-town shopping warehouses, and modern flats – boring. We did, however, find the city cemetery. Chafed or not, I had to have a nose around – lots of lovely grandiose family mausolea.

 

 

 

 

Eventually we got to the edge of the walled city and headed through the Porta Fiorentina. What a difference. A beautiful old city with all the usual features, particularly narrow pedestrianised streets. Despite this being the main shopping area, it retained a sense of class and subtlety thanks to very under-stated facades and signage.

 

Our company provided us with an App which helped us track our route in great detail. Although it said it would take us to where our B & B was, it took us somewhere different. Back to the more traditional Google Maps we eventually found the B & B. Despite messaging ahead, as instructed, our host wasn’t there. The atmosphere was now tetchy, very tetchy on my part. My phone rang, and it was our host, Francesca. Unfortunately, I could barely understand her heavily accented English but gleaned enough to sense that she had 2 properties, and that I should look at WhatsApp. Yep, she had another place 5 minutes’ walk away – Google Maps (again) and we were on our way. Just before we turned into the penultimate street an oldish lady pushing a bike stopped us… “Ian, Cate?”. It was Francesca, who turned out to be an absolute delight.

After the formalities of checking in, she marked a detailed route for us to follow to tour the old town. I hadn’t got the heart to say I couldn’t be arsed due to excessive chafage! We did, however, ask for a recommendation on somewhere to eat. She said that we needed to book as it was Saturday evening. She rang her favourite place, in the medieval quarter, and we were in. “They always make room for Francesca from Orchard”. “Just say you are from Orchard”. Bingo! The restaurant she booked just happened to be on the route she had mapped out for us, so we were obliged to do part of it.

After a shower and short nap, we were ready to head out. Fully “compeeded” up on my inner thighs I resembled John Wayne as I walked, legs wide apart. Not a pretty sight! We found the area where the restaurant was, and to be blunt; it was on another level in terms of character and medieval feel. I conjured up thoughts combining Game Of Thrones and Shakespearian drama. It was fantastic. Thank heavens she had recommended the restaurant, otherwise we’d have missed the area entirely. After wandering for 40 minutes or so we found the “Green Bar” where we surprisingly got a lovely IPA. One wasn’t enough! Shockingly, at the Hosteria dal Sor Bruno pasta was had for dinner – two days in, and my body was already closing in on being 50% cheese. Splendido!

 

 

 

The medieval quarter of Viterbo

Thoughts after the first day of walking. Firstly, it’s probably too early to make genuine comparisons to the Camino’s. Nevertheless, it’s certainly different. The towns at the start and finish were terrific. But the walking in between was sparse. Not a single, village, shop, café or bar in 13 miles. Sweet FA! This would mean a mindset and practical change. Load up with more water and snacks, and take advantage of breakfast, rather than stopping after c5 miles.  Tomorrow, we head to Caprarola, and the route looks remote again.