Tashkent or bust!

The only way is up! As usual, the process of checking in my bag, and getting through security at Heathrow was tedious, and littered with “sod customer service” moments. F*ck the customer is the new mantra! Turkish Airlines now have whizzy print your own baggage tags, but nobody to help the majority of their customers, who’ve never had the pleasure of using them before.Hence, chaos, with two barely distinguishable queues - one for the bag tags, and one to then drop your bag off. The latter was automated too, which added to the fun! On a positive note, this time I was expecting the “now take your rucksack to the oversized bag counter” routine. I hasten to add that it is NOT oversized. For trips of this ilk I leave all my potions, lotions, fragrances and lippy at home.

London in springtime 

The flight to Istanbul was uneventful. I was sat next to half of a family (Dad Turkish, Mum English, and two boys) from Southampton, who were headed for Northern Cyprus. The plane landed on time, but still took over 20 minutes to get to its stand. Yep, Istanbul is a huge airfield, and has the second largest terminal building in the world (after Beijing). 

You never quite know with a plane transfer whether you’ll have to go through security again, so the 2 hour layover might have been a bit tense. Last year, going through Istanbul, we didn’t do security going onto Bishkek. However, on the return journey, we did get the full security treatment. The “in seat” information screen told me that the Tashkent flight would depart from gate D14, so it was mildly joyous for the Heathrow flight to pull onto D12

The joys of Istanbul airport 

The flight to Tashkent was similarly uneventful, other than the fact it contained mainly Spaniards. Sleep during the four and a half hour journey was virtually impossible, so I disembarked dazed and confused at 07.30 in Tashkent. As always, my backpack was one of the last pieces of luggage to arrive. Nevertheless, that gave ample time to sort out a SIM card and exchange some dollars for the local currency, the S’om. At 12,600 UZS to 1 USD, it’s not the easiest currency calculation to get used to!

Approaching Tashkent 

Wonderful old Illuyshin 76 at Tashkent airport 

Through customs in a shot, and absolutely no mention of the traditional Uzbek greeting “have you got a drone in your bag?”. Perhaps they’ve learnt that the only droning I do, is on this forum….Zzzzzzz.

Now time to run the gauntlet of the “you want taxi” throng. Waiting for me should be a man with a board bearing my name, and that of Intrepid Travel. Except there wasn’t! Merde! Well now’s the chance to test my lovely new SIM card. I ring the 2 numbers I’d been given….no reply. Merde beginning with an F. Thirty seconds later someone calls back, and I explain the problem. They’ll call me back. They call back, and tell me to wait outside the terminal entrance. Well that’s a bloody relief, as the hastily assembled reception committee for the Spanish delegation has gone into full swing….. a dozen or so beautiful Uzbek women in national costume are handing out sweets, plus a similar number of men with musical instruments. The men, armed with horns and pipes start playing. Rarely have I heard such a cacophony. I would best describe it as twelve snake charmers all playing at the same time; but out of time, and in four different keys.

The Tashkent Tuneless

Eventually the helpline lady calls back to tell me that I don’t appear to be on her list; despite me having stumped up $22 several months ago. She’ll call me back. Getting tetchy, I start to wander in order to get shot of the “you want taxi?” mob. Eventually I see a man with a small sign 100 metres away. Although I can’t make out the details, the writing at the top is in red…..Intrepid’s colours. Yep, it’s my man, and off to Tashkent we go.

I arrive at the hotel at 9.15. However, “the earliest you can check in is at 12.00”. Ho hum. The only way to stay awake is it get out and explore. The metro stations in Tashkent are renowned for their opulence, and by sheer chance, one the best known ones is a mere hundred yards from my hotel.  It’s called Kosmonavtlar, and has a space exploration theme. It didn’t disappoint. After seeing three more stations I arrived at Amir Temur Square.

Metro Stations 

Amir Temur square is really a big park in the heart of this bustling city. Aside from being a nice, reasonably restful place, it was like pretty much any urban park. Towering over it was the Uzbekistan Hotel, which looked a classic piece of Soviet brutalism. And in the middle was a huge statue of Amir Temur himself. He was the first ruler of the Timurid dynasty which controlled most of Central Asia from the 14th century.

In and around Amir Temur Square 

I then headed back on the metro up to Chorsu. The area around the station there is a labyrinth of market stalls selling just about anything. At its heart is the main market building which looks like cross between a mosque and the Millennium Dome. Inside it’s a bustling produce market. Like many of the markets on our Stans trip last year, it’s an assault on the senses. The noise, the colours, and particularly the smells. Awesome place, and great for photography.

Back to the hotel, and a 3 hour afternoon kip revitalised me. Rather handy, as I was really struggling to keep my eyes open by midday.

I went to the welcome meeting* and then for a group meal. We have an Uzbek Tour Leader, who calls himself Richard, and the group consists of 4 Brit’s, 4 Septics and 3 Aussies.

Tomorrow, a tour around Tashkent….probably back to where I went today!

*here it was confirmed that you can get the entry visa for Turkmenistan at the border! So that was arguably two wasted trips into London, sorting mine out in advance.