Day 18 A free day in Bukhara

 A free(ish) day at last. Hallelujah!


I’ve really loved this trip, but to be honest I’ve found being part of an organised group hard pretty hard going. All the group, including the leaders and and local guides have been good company, but I’m far too used to travelling independently, and not being herded around. Those who know me well will recognise that I’m not always the most patient traveller. Some might even suggest that I like to in control a little!



The view from our hotel roof


The Lyabi-Hauz area where we’re staying 


Aside from lunch and dinner with the group, today is a blank canvas. I can do as little or as much as I want. Furthermore, I can catch up on writing this old dross.


Cate, as most of you will know, is just so nice. Always thoughtful and caring. Sadly, that niceness results in her hating to haggle for goods; and giving tips as she frets that she hasn’t given enough! FFS! A conscience is a very good thing, but occasionally it can weigh too heavily. The great news for today is that she’s teamed up with Lorna and MaryJane from our group to out shopping for gifts. More fortunately is that Lorna is very outgoing and will provide a bit of backbone to the haggling. Lorna, of course is on a massive backhander from me for a) sparing me the shopping experience (I’d rather stick pins in my eyes), and b) having the balls to haggle on Cate’s behalf.


I spent the morning doing what I like best -  just wandering. Through the markets where the gleesome threesome would later be haggling, and onto many of the places we visited yesterday. But this time I was free to get round the back and sides of these places. Down the lanes and alleyways, away from the tourist throng; who incidentally were nowhere to be seen at 9.30 in morning. I snapped, I grinned. The World was a happy place. I even found a post office. Something I’ve been yearning for, for over 2 weeks. Some people might just get postcards after all.




Kalon Mosque and Minaret 


Kalon Mosque


The back of Kalon Mosque and Minaret 


Deep in the alleyways - and old mosque being restored 


Rahmonqul Madrassah - tucked away in the labyrinth 


The magnificently restored walls of The Ark


The Ark Citadel


Real Arabian Knights stuff







Maghok -I-Attar- the oldest Mosque in Bukhara 

Dutifully, I had lunch with the group. The food was the usual 4 million courses of stodge followed by green tea. Oh how I yearn for a homemade Peanut Butter sandwich, or an M & S cheese and onion sarnie! I’m salivating just writing the words. I’ve had enough Plov to last a lifetime. No; I will not be buying an “All you need is Plov” t-shirt featuring the Fab Four in one of bloody markets!


View of Kalon Mosque from our lunchtime restaurant 



More views from the restaurant terrace


The afternoon was leisurely - mainly writing yesterday’s and this morning’s nonsense.


As the sun was dropping Cate and I walked over to the Ark Citadel and went up the observation tower to get a different perspective, and view the city skyline. Very pleasant, and reasonably good light thrown in.











Tomorrow we make the 470 kilometre journey up through the desert to Khiva, where we’ll spend 2 nights.




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