Day 15 Samarkand

Having chosen not to socialise with our group last night, I awoke bright and early at around 6.20. Leaving Cate to sleep longer I nipped out to see the early sunlight on the Bibi-Khanym mosque which is directly next to our hotel. If it doesn’t already do so, the hotel really ought to promote their USP as “mosque view”.

The light was good…….and the area was virtually deserted.

Feeling inspired, I negotiated my way through the narrow backstreets down the edge of of Registan Square, the jewel in the crown of Samarkand. And of course, the reason why I’d wanted to come here. I wandered down the tree-lined eastern side of the square and then turned right onto the southern side where I got my first real glimpse of its magnificence. My jaw scraped along the floor. Fortunately grazing was prevented by a three day stubble. My great gob was so widen open you could drive a coach and hoses through it. Restraining myself from Joanna Lumley-esque “gosh’s”, I allowed myself time to feel rather smug. Not quite the same emotion as finishing the first Camino in Santiago, but a genuine sense that I’d achieved an ambition. But no tears.

The square has three Madrasahs, Islamic schools, on the west, east and north sides. The one on the western side is called Ulugh Beg Madrasah, and dates back to the 15th century. On the north and east sides are Tilya Kori and Sher-Dor Madrasahs respectively; both dating from the 17th century.

A photographic frenzy ensued. A few other early risers were milling around in the square between the Madrasahs so I walked past the closed ticket office and merrily snapped away. However, it wasn’t before a security fascist came up and demanded 50,000 S’om from me. We had a short discourse which failed to halt his demand for money from me, so I turned and walked back past the ticket office back into “free Uzbekistan” again. He didn’t follow, which pretty much confirmed that it was a blatant scam that the “security guards” were operating to con unsuspecting tourists out of their money. Fifty thousand S’om sounds a lot, but is only about £3.30. But a scam is a scam. Once I was the right side of the barrier it was very tempting to give him a good old fashioned Rik Mayall V-sign, then utter the immortal line “have you had enough fascist bully boy, or do you want some more”. I thought better of it, on the assumption that he may not have been a Young Ones aficionado.

More photos from a safe distance, and then a nice leisurely stroll back to the hotel in time for breakfast. Not a bad start to the day. 

After breakfast, it was back down to the Registan for a proper tour around the Madrasahs. Each one has a unique design, but surprisingly all of them had a number of stalls in their alcove’s selling the usual tourist tat. However, the inside of Tilya Kori Madrasah had stunningly intricate patterned wall decorations. So much so, that it’s the cover photo of the Central Asia Lonely Planet guidebook. My photo is not as good as theirs.

Having “done the Registan”, it was back to near the hotel to see the Bibi-Khanim Mosque. This place is huge, and is considered to be one of the most magnificent mosques in the Islamic world. It is indeed a magnificent building, but in my opinion not as good as the Madrasahs of the Registan. In any other city it would be the number one attraction. King of the hill, a number one…..etc.

A rather tasty bowl of lentil soup was the limited lunch, as internal matters are more delicate than ever. I’m making a one man assault on Cate’s stockpile of Ciprofloxicin. Enough of that. Consequently, I chose not to accompany the rest of our group on their afternoon excursion. I did manage a mosey around the nearby bazaar in search of those most renowned of stomach settlers, crisps! It was a big sprawling place, but all rather ordered compared to the ones in Bishkek, Osh and Panijkent. Nevertheless, good for people watching, and a bit of ”snap, snap, grin, grin, wink, wink” candid photography.

Judging by Cate’s comments, I didn’t miss too much by having a leisurely afternoon at the hotel. Result! To end our time here in Samarkand we walked back the Registan (again) to see the nightly light show. And mightily impressive it was too. Gentle tasteful colour changes set to local music. Mind you I’d have been happy with a couple of head torches waving about to the sound of Sting’s Desert Rose. I remain a low class cheap date. Easily pleased.