Day 12 - Fann Mountains

 Due to a combination of late night singing by members of our party (especially our local guide Verdavs), a rock solid mattress and a plumbing system that wailed in our bathroom every time anyone in the entire building used any water, I did not enjoy a good night. That is putting it mildly, as I’d probably had little more than an hours sleep. I wasn’t happy at all. Not least as we’ve got a second night here too, which frankly I’m dreading. Tired and very temperamental I didn’t speak to anyone over breakfast. Best to say nothing rather than explode. Eventually after thawing somewhat, phrases such as “unacceptable” and “not fit for purpose” had to be used. People were at least conciliatory and apologetic.


The view from the Home Stay


The group headed off on a walk to Alexander Lake, whilst I stayed behind, still simmering. I then got a lift with our guide down to join them at the lake.  When caught them up them still had a mile to go. After a rain overnight and a wet start to the morning, the mountains in the distance were significantly more snow capped. We got to the lake, and the sun worked its magic, turning the water to a magnificent turquoise colour - absolutely stunning. 






Next to the lake is a smart looking house with lots of Tajikistan flags, and billboards showing pictures of the president. It also has two helipads. Apparently it’s a government Dacha (country house) for use by various party officials. Just opposite this Dacha there was quite a commotion. Sheep were being slaughtered and skinned in a pop up alfresco abattoir. Not exactly pleasant to see, but another reminder of how we get our food.




The Government Dacha


We were then driven to the eastern end of the lake. More stunning views looking over the lake and towards the snow covered peaks in the distance. Next we climbed up to the bizarrely named Snake Lake. Definitely not so spectacular, but still pretty enough. From there a 40 minute hike along the bubbling mountain river to a 38 metre waterfall where the was a precarious and creaking old rusting viewing platform. More photos.



 Snake Lake











Apart from my dreadful night’s sleep, this really is a special place, and very much worth the arduous journey to get here.







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