Day 10 - Kokand (Uzbekistan) to Khodjent (Tajikistan)

Today we crossed into the poorest of the “Stans”, Tajikistan. After the chaos of crossing from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan, I was really looking forward to more of the same at the Uzbekistan/Tajikistan border. But more on that later.

First of all we had to see couple of sights in Kokand. The Khan’s Palace was really a foretaste of what we will see later on this trip. A beautiful old building, although a lot of the original surrounding structures had been destroyed by the good old Soviets. Unfortunately, we only got to see a part of the building as access was restricted due a forthcoming “international handicrafts festival” that was in the throes of being set up. 

There was a large group of Uzbek teenage students (girls) there too. In the traditionally conservative Fergana Valley it seemed unusual that most them were wearing more westernised clothing. A good number of them wanted selfies with us, which was hilarious in my opinion. They were delightfully friendly and unaffected. Although why anyone would want to be photographed with an old git such as me would make you question their sanity. Still who cares! If it gets me trending on Instagram or TikTok in Uzbekistan I don’t mind. Today Central Asia, tomorrow the World darlings

Next we went to the Jami Mosque. The biggest one in Kokand. Jami means Friday, and this particular place is really only used on Fridays, when the less devout Muslims will come out to pray. The more devout “practising Muslims” pray five times every day, elsewhere.

It took an hour to reach the border with Tajikistan. It could not have been more different than the day before getting into Uzbekistan from Kyrgyzstan. It was virtually deserted. We had to wait five minutes for the passports man to pitch up. When he did arrive, he was reasonably friendly, and apologetic for our wait. Through in a shot, we made the 200 metre walk across no man’s land to Tajik immigration, armed and ready with our Visas. One elderly person was in front of us in the queue. As is traditional on these occasions, she was quickly joined by a couple of metal-toothed old hags who pushed in front of us within the blink of an eye. But in less than a minute they were through. Optimism for a speedy entry was tinged by cynical concern that something was wrong….had there been a coup in Tajikistan, was it a Public Holiday etc etc?

Our concerns were unfounded, and we were all through within 20 minutes. At an average of 2 minutes each, that dear readers is ultra-FastTrack. Even more astounding was how friendly all the Tajik officials were. “Have a nice days” and “welcome to Tajikistans” were flying about as though they were about to go out of fashion. Once through the steel gate, I ran the gauntlet of the heaving throng of awaiting dodgy taxi drivers and money exchangers. All 4 of them! Also waiting was our Tajik guide Ferdavs. A man, according to our tour leader James, who loves to sing, and like a drink. 

Near the border 

Split into three people carriers, we were on our way to Tajikistan’s second city Khodjent. Initially the road was ok, but after a few miles it started to deteriorate. Half an hour later we could see a big Kyrgyzstan flag flying ahead on a huge pole to the side of the road. As we neared it, most of the buildings (made from corrugated metal) around it were crumpled and destroyed. It looked as though a tornado had ripped through the place. Then we passed numerous more damaged buildings, and petrol stations. Seven destroyed petrol stations in less than a mile. Bizarre! Without either a guide or tour leader in our vehicle we couldn’t find out what had happened. But google maps gave a big clue. The road was literally the unfenced border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz side to our left (south), and  Tajikistan to the right (north). Ferdavs later explained that in late 2022 the locals living either side had a big dispute over land ownership and access to irrigation. Ninety-one people died, and 4000 were displaced in the week long conflict. It also explained why the official border crossing points between the two countries were closed. Hence us having to go via Uzbekistan to get from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan. Fascinating, but also an insight into how ethnic tensions can escalate so quickly and violently.

Eventually the road improved as we neared Khodjent and then diverted out for an unashamed photo opportunity. 

After lunch we stopped at museum that gave a good insight into Tajik history. Then we climbed the monument above the  museum to get some fine views of Khodjent 

Next was the obligatory Lenin statue. Another whopper, but this time made from local aluminium. Vlad Light if you wish! But still with the usual cheery old boat race of course.

After a quick visit to a bank to get some local currency (Somoni), it was onto our hotel. This had been billed as a Soviet classic; and it didn’t disappoint. The exterior all glitz and flashing lights. A huge cavernous ostentatious reception area and restaurant. Were we in Vegas? Of course we weren’t, and that was confirmed when we got onto the landing of the eight floor, and into our dowdy little room all decorated in shades of brown. The shower leaked over the floor, and my bed gently sloped about 4cm from one side to another. Premium Soviet style at its mind-numbing best.

We went out to eat at a place that had draught beer. The first one of the trip so far. Slainté! Oh yes, it cost 49p for just under a pint. Salut, Prost and cheers all rolled into one. That made sleeping a touch easier, although I still felt like I was camping on a hill. 

For the moment it’s all.  Tajiktastic. Hasta Luego!