Camino Inglés UK - Day 1Reading to Mortimer

They’re under starter’s orders; and they’re off!

After what seems like weeks of non-stop rain, cloudy skies and sunless days we wake up to a beautiful morning here in Buckinghamshire.* The usually sluggish Nodge normally spends an hour doing Spanish Duolingo, and then wordle laying in bed. He’s up at 7 and bouncing; like an over-excited Tigger. For today is the start of our 2023 Camino. Just one day’s walking in isolation, before we “get serious” doing four back-to-back days later this month. Today is a twelve-mile jaunt on the Camino Inglés from Reading to Mortimer.

 

Never in the history of mankind has a human being been so excited about going to the cultural desert that is Reading! Plus of course, it is largely a characterless dump isn’t it? “Nice part of Reading?” It is right up there amongst my favourite oxymorons like “Fun Run”, “Job Satisfaction”, “nicely cleaned car”….and others that would get me into trouble if I shared them!

 

I’m sure I’ve explained before what we are doing this year, but here’s a quick summary. We are walking the St. James’ Way from Reading to Southampton – five days walking in total. Unlike Pilgrims in days of yore, who would have got a boat from Southampton to Spain, we’ll then fly to Galicia. Once there, we’ll do 6 days walking to arrive in Santiago de Compostela.

And so, Mrs Norridge (aka The Billy Goat) and I find ourselves stood in bright sunshine at a bus stop in the village of Mortimer awaiting the number 2 bus on the “lime route”. I don’t like buses. They tend to be late, and often very aromatic in bad way! Well, it wasn’t long before my first surprise of the day, as bang on the scheduled time of 09.21 my vision was obscured by a big bright lime bus. Somewhat akin to a giant Kermit the frog on wheels. Then even more of a shock; it was devoid of other passengers and actually felt quite pleasant. Buses have rather changed since the days of the 20A from Cumnor to Abingdon back in the 70’s. Back then the only good thing about the bus to school was looking dreamily at the girls from other schools, but obviously being far to shy to talk to them. Anyway, the new-fangled variant of this form of public transport has USB ports for charging phones, display screens saying what the next stop is, audio announcements of stops and even wi-fi. Luxury! (said in best “Four Yorkshiremen” voice). However, by the time we got close to the centre of Reading it was standing room only, and predictably pungent! Mrs N and I were definitely at the lower end of the age demographic, which is becoming all too rare these days.

You may recall from previous blogs that in Spain you can collect stamps in your Camino Passport (Credencial) along the way. Not only does this make for a great memento of the adventure, but it also enables you get a completion certificate (Compostela) when you reach Santiago. According to my St. James’ Way book it is possible to get stamps at various places along the route to Southampton. The book also advises that the route has been waymarked using the traditional blue and yellow Camino signs featuring scallops.  To be honest, I’m very dubious about the likelihood of these aspects being true. After all, this is the UK and there is no obvious profit in doing either! Nevertheless, we travelled in hope rather than expectation. And for that reason, we start by popping into Reading Museum hopeful that they could provide the first stamp.

 

We’re greeted by a really friendly lady there who can, indeed, stamp our passports. She asks us to sign the “Pilgrims Register” and tells us that they are getting between 30 and 40 people each week calling in. Grounds for optimism. On we go, heading towards the “Abbey Quarter”, where the walk starts in earnest at the appropriately named St. James Church. It’s a beautiful bright sunny day and Reading does not look like such an ugly duckling after all. I’ve been to Reading many times, but never been to the Abbey Quarter. It’s actually rather nice. To get there we cross the attractive Forbury Gardens. This sadly, was where a teacher was brutally, and randomly stabbed to death a couple of years ago. Utterly horrendous!

Forbury Gardens

At St James’ Church I find the Church Office, and the not so friendly Woman there stamps our passports. In fairness to her, it a very busy period for them. We’re off! There’s even a waymarker showing the start point of the Camino. I am excited. More excited than I have been for ages! I’m told off for walking too fast. We head past the extensive ruins of Reading Abbey, see the old Reading Gaol (where Oscar Wilde was incarcerated) in the distance, and head to the Kennet and Avon Canal. We are to follow this Canal (It is actually a river**) for 6 miles heading out to the south-west of Reading.

St James' Church

The Abbey Ruins

We pass through the retail heart of Reading, past the Oracle Shopping centre, and out into the suburbs. Once out of the town centre, it really is very nice; and surprisingly rural. I may have to withdraw the oxymoron comment after all!

After an hour and a half, we reach The Cunning Man Pub which is in a lovely setting next to the Canal. Coffees are had sat in the garden, and it’s high time to get my legs out for the first time this year! Calm yourselves ladies – they maybe beautifully formed, but they’re the same colour as a Frenchman’s favourite flag. Blinding in the Spring sunlight after their winter hibernation!

We get another stamp at the pub, and continue. After going under the M4 we get to the edge of Theale and turn south away from the Canal/River. Shortly we get to Sheffield Bottom, and find the Fox and Hounds. Another stamp; this time accompanied by a pint. On we go; following the way markers that I was sceptical about. There are even some painted yellow arrows. It really feels like a proper Camino.

     

After passing the entrance to Sulhamstead Police Training College, we head to the hamlet of Sulhamsted Abbots. Guided by our book, I had emailed the church warden there to see if we could get a stamp at the church. Although she was away, she said that a man called Anthony would meet us there. And so he did. He turned out to be the former Vicar there, and was delightful. Not only did he stamp our passports, but also encouraged us to have a go at ringing the church bell. That was a first for both of us; and rather special. He also insisted on blessing us before we headed off. What a top bloke!

After that it was an eventful, but lovely walk, through woodlands and across commons around Burghfield before getting back to Mortimer. Nearly 13 miles walked. Two blisters had started to form. Luckily, it’s a couple of weeks before we do the 4 days back-to-back from Mortimer to Southampton, so they’ll have time to recover.

We end with a drink (and another stamp) at the Horse and Groom in Mortimer. As I sat there in the sun with my shoes and socks off, I was really thinking that I wanted to just crack on with the next leg straight away. Nevertheless, those blisters were a timely reminder of a need to curb my ambition!