Monday Monday! Los Arcos to Navarette  (Mon 13th May)

Well it really felt like a proper old Monday today. Did we want to get out of bed – did we hell! A week’s worth of walking is taking its toll – legs and feet aching at 6.30 in the morning; welcome to Camino normality.


We scraped ourselves up and got on the Camino by 7.30. A nice sunny, but cool Navarre morning greeted us, along with a welcome breeze. Leaving Los Arcos behind basking in the sharp colours of early morning we made good headway along a relatively flat path. Before we knew it, we were making the relatively steep climb up into Sansol; a village with 10 residents according to our book. At the local superstore (ok Super Mercado) we got good coffee and bananas as well as meeting 40% of the village population. By the time we’d left he village we’d seen all the residents bar one!



Looking back to Sansol


The Rev'd Ian gives a Paisleyesque fire and brimstone
sermon at an alfresco altar a long The Way


Nearing La Rioja and the vines are taking over the countryside




Viana

A steep descent followed down to the river then immediately back up to the village facing Sansol – Torres del Rio. That was pretty much it for populated places for the next 7 miles. Next stop Viana, where we planned to implement “project cheating” – i.e. getting a bus 8km into Logrono to avoid boring suburbs. Of course by the time we got to Viana, a place with a really ancient heart, the hourly bus schedule had dropped to once every 3 hours. Ever renowned for my patience, I sorted a taxi into Logrono.

It felt so weird – our first time in a vehicle for over a week. Sat on soft seats, being whisked across from Navarre into La Rioja. Luxury!!


Logrono

 We were dropped back on the Camino by the Puente de Piedra and walked the short way into the old centre of Logrono. It’s big cathedral was shut, and the old town was; as expected, quite small. Our decision not to stay there was vindicated!



Some of the fine murals in Logrono


Logrono


Logrono Cathedral

So again we cheated, and took the local bus out to Navarette. Yes “Inbetweeners” fans you can insult us if you wish!!

Navarette had a massively out of kilter sized church – again a temple of gold and ornate decoration. The Bar Deportivo had been recommended for its Pilgrim meals. And boy it didn’t disappoint. Just my garlic and poached egg soup was enough for a full meal. 2 courses, and a half a bottle of wine later I felt like Mr Creosote (from Monty Python’s – Meaning Of Life) – about to explode. Luckily no After Eights were offered!


Nicely understated!!



So that was it for the day. Into La Rioja, and I’d already drunk as much red wine in one evening as I had during the whole of 2018. That coupled with a number of blisters developing bodes badly for the days ahead.


The most awesome, wholesome Garlic and Poached Egg soup

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