Leg 6 - Estrella to Los Arcos

So I was despatched across Estrella at 6.30 a.m. to find the Albergue Municipales in the vain hope of recovering our Pilgrim’s Passports there. As I left our hotel and crossed the Plaza I encountered the last stragglers of a long Saturday night out slowly winding their way happily home – glasses of beer in hand. It was half-light and cold – bloody cold, just 4 degrees.

Winding my way through the atmospheric narrow streets of Estrella I found the Albergue Municpales right on the Camino route after about 15 minutes. Bugger! The door was locked, but there was clearly life in side. Do I bang on the door and incur the wrath of some grumpy Hostalerio. Better still press the buzzer? Button pressed, and no sooner does the door swing open. No grumpy half shaven Basque monster, but a diminutive Japanese looking woman leaving to start her day’s walking – bingo!

Showing an unusual pace (normally “deceptively slow” allegedly) I shot through the rapidly closing door and into an empty reception area. To the right an unoccupied desk  - on it the 2 prized items. Our Credencial del Pelegrinos. Bingo!

Now a dilemma. Do I find someone official to ask for them, or lift them and go? With a scene akin to the one in my favourite film Animal House, I had an angel on one shoulder saying “be nice, do the right thing, ask someone” and the devil on the other saying “stuff that you girls blouse – just take them and be off”.

The devil won.

So I off I scuttled out the door and through into the still cold and largely deserted streets of Estella with a spring in my step , and a Morecambe & Wise-esque skip. Today was going to be a good day.



The blessed Pilgrim Passports


Our first stop on the day’s walk was Bodegas Irache. Here they have a “wine fountain” where Pilgrims can indulge in free wine. Probably not the greatest wine by a long shout, but any Pilgrim worth their salt wouldn’t miss out on filling up a cup or bottle with it!





 After that the walk of about 15 miles to Los Arcos was relatively uneventful.

We took the more picturesque and less-travelled route which, although slightly shorter, had much greater and steeper levels of ascent. However, much to our joy the major part of the biggest climb was through beautifully shaded woodland. That coupled with the nice breeze meant that it really wasn’t too hard to get up about 1200 feet quite quickly.


The latter part of the route was through shadeless rolling farmland that seemed to go on and on forever. It was hot getting hot; and frankly a bit boring. However it was undoubtedly a good taster of what we’ll encounter day after day once we get beyond Burgos and deep into Castille.

Unlike on the majority of previous legs, our destination, Los Arcos did a superb job of hiding itself until we were virtually in it. But it was a lovely little place. Not at all like the one-horse Mexican bandit town I had conjured up in my mind!




Raider of the Los Arcos


Monday is washing day - Camino style

The wi-fi in the hotel did not reach our room, so I had to sit in the closed bar with the owner who was watching Pelota on TV. I asked about Pelota, and we then had about 45 minutes of great conversation in a mixture of Espanglais, Franglais and English. He was passionately Basque – very passionately Basque! He scuttled off behind the bar, brought me a beer and also came back with a really old Pelota “pala larga” (long bat). Did you know that tennis rackets originated from early forms of Pelota bats?


 Then an insight to the Basque Language (Euskara) which is one of world’s oldest. So did you know that Iberia (as in Iberian peninsula) has its roots in Basque. We talked, somewhat furtively, of the Basque desire for independence and the similarity with the Catalan struggle. Clearly, among some Basques there’s still a deep resentment of the Spanish regime and their main enforcers, the Guardia Civil. Fortunately, they (the Basques) seem intent on peaceful persuasion nowadays.


The time just flew by – absolutely fascinating. I guess that’s why travel; especially travelling slowly, is so brilliant. Time to meet and just talk. Wonderful!

Would he let me pay for the beer? Absolutely not.

Cate and I had a wander around Los Arcos; a pretty place with a massive church. The inside of the church was outrageously ostentatious. A far cry from the more sparse surrounding of our churches.

Lastly a wholesome Pelegino’s meal, recommended by our Hotel owner. €13 each for 3 big courses, a fine glass of red. 


The understated interior of Los Arcos church

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