Day 23 - Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas
Thanks to our decision to walk the more rural route to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, today was now going to be a longer and more lonesome trek than originally planned. Knowing that we wouldn't hit our first village; and more importantly, coffee stop for nearly eleven miles it had to be an early start. Very early indeed
In near darkness, we closed the door of the Casa El Curo behind us and headed out into the chill of a Spanish dawn. We'd treated ourselves to having our packs transported to Mansilla, and so despite the early hour, we had a quite a spring in our step. Not quite "airport speed", but not far off. The cold air helped take our minds off the lingering impact of the previous evening's wine. Schoolboy error on our part! The sun rose beautifully up behind us - beautiful, but not good for progress due the need to photograph it.
Backpack free, we bounded along through the intensively farmed countryside and before we even started to feel any effects on our feet, we'd covered over 9 miles. On route we'd met one Polish bloke carrying a big 6 foot stave - the Pole with a pole (Ok, not very original), and passed an American couple whom we'd met the previous afternoon. About as busy as Maidenhead High Street on a wet Thursday afternoon in January.
At the brow of a small hill Reliegos, our coffee stop, came into view. It really was a fine panorama with the Cantabrian Mountains way off in the distance, and the flat plain of the Meseta. Best of all, was that we could see our final destination for the day, Mansilla, off in the distance.
Going into Reliegos we passed lots of the underground wine stores - like an estate of slightly old-fashioned Teletubbie houses.
And so we arrived in Reliegos just after 10.30, having covered 11 out of the day's 16 miles. Before we knew it, an hour had passed - helped by a good old natter with a lovely Irish couple from Drogheda. Bloated up like a couple of coffee and pan au chocolat inflated Teletubbies we waddled off down the road towards Mansilla.
The path went alongside a road all the way, and we expected 5 long miserable miles. Well it turned out to be a very quiet road, and with lots of trees providing shade over the path. We arrived in Mansilla in no time - it was if someone had put a pin into the balloon-like Teletubbies and we been jet propelled along the way; but without the horrible squealing noise a balloon makes.
Mansilla de las Mulas is a pretty nice place. It was once a walled town, but sadly only small sections of the wall remain. It was market day, so the place was buzzing with mainly elderly locals going about their business.
Thanks to our decision to walk the more rural route to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, today was now going to be a longer and more lonesome trek than originally planned. Knowing that we wouldn't hit our first village; and more importantly, coffee stop for nearly eleven miles it had to be an early start. Very early indeed
In near darkness, we closed the door of the Casa El Curo behind us and headed out into the chill of a Spanish dawn. We'd treated ourselves to having our packs transported to Mansilla, and so despite the early hour, we had a quite a spring in our step. Not quite "airport speed", but not far off. The cold air helped take our minds off the lingering impact of the previous evening's wine. Schoolboy error on our part! The sun rose beautifully up behind us - beautiful, but not good for progress due the need to photograph it.
Backpack free, we bounded along through the intensively farmed countryside and before we even started to feel any effects on our feet, we'd covered over 9 miles. On route we'd met one Polish bloke carrying a big 6 foot stave - the Pole with a pole (Ok, not very original), and passed an American couple whom we'd met the previous afternoon. About as busy as Maidenhead High Street on a wet Thursday afternoon in January.
At the brow of a small hill Reliegos, our coffee stop, came into view. It really was a fine panorama with the Cantabrian Mountains way off in the distance, and the flat plain of the Meseta. Best of all, was that we could see our final destination for the day, Mansilla, off in the distance.
Going into Reliegos we passed lots of the underground wine stores - like an estate of slightly old-fashioned Teletubbie houses.
A welcome opportunity for a light shower along the way
And so we arrived in Reliegos just after 10.30, having covered 11 out of the day's 16 miles. Before we knew it, an hour had passed - helped by a good old natter with a lovely Irish couple from Drogheda. Bloated up like a couple of coffee and pan au chocolat inflated Teletubbies we waddled off down the road towards Mansilla.
The path went alongside a road all the way, and we expected 5 long miserable miles. Well it turned out to be a very quiet road, and with lots of trees providing shade over the path. We arrived in Mansilla in no time - it was if someone had put a pin into the balloon-like Teletubbies and we been jet propelled along the way; but without the horrible squealing noise a balloon makes.
Virtually 17 miles walked - the picture didn't take much posing
Mansilla de las Mulas is a pretty nice place. It was once a walled town, but sadly only small sections of the wall remain. It was market day, so the place was buzzing with mainly elderly locals going about their business.
So that is nearly it for us. Our last leg is into Leon; which we will almost certainly not walk. Dull suburbs and industrial estates are being foregone to enable us to spend more time in the city centre. The magic of a bus trip awaits.
The day ended with a very social meal at one of the Albergues - the usual international mix of people and great array of discussion topics. The most random subject being the Irish Lighthouse system!
Tomorrow's update from Leon maybe 24 hour late; as it looks like we don't have wi-fi. Bear with darlings; Bear with!
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