Day 15 – Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas  (Mon 20 May)

I can’t deny it; I was really not looking forward to getting on the move again. Firstly, down to a real concern that the blisters that had largely settled, but not gone completely, were going to rare up with a vengeance. Secondly, the next 10 days (our last 10) were across the Meseta  - a massive plateau at an altitude of 900m (just under 3000 ft) that sits between Burgos and Leon.

The Meseta has a reputation for being a sparse boring place that many pilgrims choose to avoid. Simply getting the bus from Burgos to Leon. However, I’ve also read that many people find great solace crossing it. A place for deep thought and contemplation. Hopefully that will be the case for me, and it’ll take me off wondering about the 2019-20 football fixtures that will be announced in a few week’s time. Yes indeed, I’m that shallow! I will, of course, work very hard to keep my mind off trying to find gainful employment when I return home – but in the meantime any suggestions on what I could do will be welcome (keep them polite)



Bye bye Burgos

So, to today’s walk. It was a beautiful sunny morning in Burgos. Within minutes we’d left the old town behind, and were walking through pretty boring suburbs – the sort you’d find in all Spanish cities. Flats, apartments, flats apartments, super market, flats etc.

After only a couple of miles my feet were gently sending me expletive laden messages  - think Vyvyan in the Young Ones and you’ll get the picture!! So there was no alternative to change from walking boots to trainers. A definite improvement.


Ooh what a lovely route alongside the motorway!


Despite that, it was thoroughly dull unenjoyable walk – my mind wandered to a state of “seriously, what the hell am I doing this for? 10 more days of this crap; why on earth did you book the return flight for 30th May?”. We drudged on for what seemed like miles; past a prison that looked like a French Foreign Legion outpost in the middle of the Sahara (without the sand obviously), then around and under various bloody motorways at an intersection. Utterly banal!

For the last 2 miles to our coffee stop at Tardajos, I was pretty much silent – certainly not the effervescent, cheery bundle of joy that you all know and love 😉.


Now running better on caffeine power

Two strong coffee’s, a pan au chocolat, and 25 minutes later the world seemed a better place! On checking my walking App I realised that we’d done nearly 7 miles at a pace I’d consider quite quick if I wasn’t carrying a pack. Not quite “Airport speed”* but not far off; and with over 10kg being carried on my back. No wonder my body was giving me the verbals!!


So with a spring in our steps, but one that made us walk more slowly, we were on our way for the final couple of miles to our final destination for the day – the banging Metropolis of Rabe de las Calzadas (Pop 200). For the first time in a few hours we took the opportunity to look backwards. And there 20 miles beyond Burgos were the mountains of the Sierra de la Demanda – sparkling white with a new covering of snow from the last couple of days where the temperatures had dropped massively. Marvellous.


Love the snow

Approaching Rabe de las Calzadas the steep edge of the Meseta was viewavle for miles – a nice 400 foot climb to look forward to in the morning! Rabe, for short, is a lovely little village – 2 hostals/bars, a big church and a monastery – quintessential rural Spain.

The Meseta "wall"


Rabe - rocking on a Monday afternoon

Just had a lovely afternoon chilling in the sun outside our hotel chatting with a charming Australian woman, Madge from Melbourne. Clearly. “blowing the froth off a couple” was mandatory – so now time for a little nap!

*Airport speed will be familiar to anyone who has travelled with me. Best described as severely brisk. Be thankful that it is probably only my wife and kids that have to suffer “Double airport speed” which is exactly “what it says on the tin”; and best avoided.




Tomorrow we go thataway........







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