Caucasus again

Cate‘s Update

I was more nervous than excited flying out to Biarritz; I felt I was running on adrenaline. We are now 3 days in, and relaxing in Pamplona. Day one feels a week ago!! Setting out that morning was a unique experience, Pilgrims slowly visible ahead and behind, most barely managing  a brief greeting of “Buen Camino.” Obviously in their own thoughts, like us , thinking “here we go let’s get this challenge underway”, also knowing it would be a long demanding day.

Our first blessing was perfect weather. I chatted to a German man, who had walked the Camino before but the weather on the first day was shrouded in fog so missed the incredible views. He felt he had to come back and do it again. Our other observation was we have huge packs compared everyone else, I spent some of the time going through my kit and thinking what can I do without and still have a comfortable time. I know this is a challenge but I am not up for full on suffering, but of course the more you carry the more you suffer. In my case very sore hips!! Despite the advice to stick on sanitary pads for cushioning and protection.

For those of you who watched the celebrity Camino; Orrison hostel, their first stop, was amazing. We stopped for coffee, and the views were breath-taking. Beyond there, the snow capped peaks were stunning. You could almost always see where you were heading by the Pilgrims colourful packs in the distance. The guide books prepare you that the first section is very steep going up, and the last part was ridiculously steep going down, not enjoyable.

Our room on the first night was in the same building as the Pilgrims supper, this made us feel part of a shared journey. Two ladies from La Coruna in Galicia, and four French speaking Canadians. Nodge is great at trying out his languages, I am always hoping they will speak English. Since then we’ve enjoyed seeing them along the way at cafes and bars, like greeting old friends, keen to know how they are feeling, and giving encouragement. The human side of the Camino.

I also chatted to another Canadian lady who was walking with her husband and 3 teenage sons, this was the third time she had walked the first section, once with her mother, then her husband  and now as a family; but she had never completed it?? Her youngest son was carrying a plastic trombone,  which yesterday he played at a café where we had stopped. Everyone there was enchanted by his playing. Not what you would ever expect.

I was truly exhausted physically after the second day of walking, I could have fallen asleep in my pizza. I had booked a hotel - what a blessing and what a hotel! An amazing restored /modernised farm house - our room was large with a balcony (overlooking a factory!!). But who cares; the bed was big and super comfortable, plus our own shower. I don’t think I could have coped with sharing!!

 Our original plan was to stay in some Albergues (multiple occupancy hostels ) and some hotels, but we have compromised and decided to stay in low price hotels and send our sleeping bags home to reduce weight. This may not be the full Camino experience if you are a purest, but this is our Camino, so here’s to clean sheets and towels, our own shower and only Nodge snoring – even that sounds good to me!!!  

Now to prepare for the next phase. Long distances each day, but fewer steep climbs. We may not see our new friends now as having a rest day has put us out of synch with them.

The Canadian trombonist

Our stuff being sent home! Thank heavens for a really helpful lady at the Correos